cookies are the only way for a client side counter
example from
Hit Counter
For those who just want to know how may times someone has visited the following code is all you need. This uses a single cookie called 'hitCount' that is incremented with every visit to a page.
// Original JavaScript code by Duncan Crombie: dcrombie at chirp.com.au
// Please acknowledge use of this code by including this header.
function greetVisitor() {
var hitCount = getCookie("hitCount"

;
if (hitCount == null) {
hitCount = 1;
document.write ("<p>This is your first visit</p>"

;
} else {
document.write ("<p>You have been here " + (++hitCount) + " times</p>"

;
}
setCookie("hitCount", hitCount);
}
To use this code you have to call the function from somewhere in the body of the page as shown below:
<SCRIPT language="JavaScript">
greetVisitor();
</SCRIPT>
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