BGP is way complex. There is a ton you can do with it. It scared me too when I was going through the CCNP. I'm kind of like Burt where I'm dealing with a lot of small offices not needing much more than just some default/local routing. But my corporate head ends are BGP, so I do get a small taste of BGP...like a couple of times a year.
Last Feb when I was going through the CCIP material and BGP specifically, I was amazed at how many different ways you can manipulate routes with it. What I really took away is there are 2 ways to do BGP routing...keep it simple or overly complex.
I can't say that BGP is easy, especially at first, but it is fascinating, and I really like some of the visibility you get in and out of it.
BTW..just finished a downtime and got to make some changes/additions to BGP and VRF instances that was pretty cool.