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Any Experts on Front Panel Connectors Please?? 3
- Thread starter eponymous
- Start date
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1
- #2
You can get that info at the IBM website, all you have to do is plug in the correct machine model number, which is all over their machines. If you need help with the number, just write down all the numbers you can find and we will identify it for you. Its a bit tricky to find the model number but once you do that IBM is very good at providing all sorts of info and diagrams, including what you are looking for!
Im a bit too busy right now but i have info on a netvista and once i find it then i can give you the correct number to look for if you cant find it out yourself.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
Im a bit too busy right now but i have info on a netvista and once i find it then i can give you the correct number to look for if you cant find it out yourself.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
- Thread starter
- #3
Garebo,
Thanks for this. The problem is finding the [name/type] of document that has the right degree of info.
The closest I had been able to get before, which was obviously inadequate, was the "maintenance manual". This could show me the power led plug with 8 connection points - what it could not tell me is the function of each of those 8 points.
This is the precise info I require and if you happen to know the [name/type] of document to look for to give me the function of each of those 8 points - that would be brilliant??
Thanks again for your help.
Denis
Thanks for this. The problem is finding the [name/type] of document that has the right degree of info.
The closest I had been able to get before, which was obviously inadequate, was the "maintenance manual". This could show me the power led plug with 8 connection points - what it could not tell me is the function of each of those 8 points.
This is the precise info I require and if you happen to know the [name/type] of document to look for to give me the function of each of those 8 points - that would be brilliant??
Thanks again for your help.
Denis
Ok, i just need some time to try and find the info i did on one, that should at least bring you to the same place.
In the meantime, do you have any model number? It could be something like M1836 or some combo of numbers and letters, cant quite remember.
I will look and see and get back to you.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
In the meantime, do you have any model number? It could be something like M1836 or some combo of numbers and letters, cant quite remember.
I will look and see and get back to you.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
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1
- #5
On all the Netvistas I've worked on, you get the exact model stuff from cold boot (power cycle), [F1], and product ID.
Although it is an 8 wire connector, only 6 are used on the model I am familiar with, power, power led, and HD, and the connector labels are silkscreened on the board in in IBM's nomenclature.
Shouldn't be to hard to identify the power switch. Plug it on and press the switch. If it powers up, good. If not move the connector to another set. Worst case, is 3 tries.
Next is the power led. Two tries in two possible configurations. And two tries on the HD. Figuring out the connections the T/E method is probably faster than tracing the documentation down.
But I think you are going to have a problem on the opposite side of the board. Verify that the I/O plate on the case you are getting will match the motherboard becaues otherwise you are going to do some sheet metal work on the existing plate.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
Although it is an 8 wire connector, only 6 are used on the model I am familiar with, power, power led, and HD, and the connector labels are silkscreened on the board in in IBM's nomenclature.
Shouldn't be to hard to identify the power switch. Plug it on and press the switch. If it powers up, good. If not move the connector to another set. Worst case, is 3 tries.
Next is the power led. Two tries in two possible configurations. And two tries on the HD. Figuring out the connections the T/E method is probably faster than tracing the documentation down.
But I think you are going to have a problem on the opposite side of the board. Verify that the I/O plate on the case you are getting will match the motherboard becaues otherwise you are going to do some sheet metal work on the existing plate.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
- Thread starter
- #6
Garebo,
That’s most kind. Here are the FRU details: 09K9982 010. I thought the individual connection details might be in a User’s Manual but have been quite unable to locate one. Also because it’s a single proprietary plug (as opposed to a number of individual ones) guess it might be hard to get the usual specific detail on each individual connection point.
Should you happen to easily put your hand on the info that would be a bonus. Otherwise, please see Edfair’s T/E below. Thanks again.
Denis
Edfair,
Many thanks. Should have explained. Picked up mobo at computer fair and now wanting to fit into ATX – and hence such limited info & identifying connection points at pre-cold boot stage.
Very helpful to know what connections involved. Believe I came across something re one of other netavista models that no reset so this would confirm that. Also, wasn’t sure how safe t/e would be – so thanks for that and sequence.
Couple of quick questions:
1) Power LED currently 3 connection plug:
- + 5V
- no connect
- PLED
Presumably, simply re-wire into 2 connection plug?
2) Speaker currently 4 connection plug:
- Speaker
- no connect
- no connect
- Ground
a) Looks like there is an individual 2 pin connector for speaker behind I/O??
b) Presumably, simply re-wire into 2 connection plug?
Looks like I might get away with I/O plate. Thanks again for a very helpful message.
Regards,
Denis
That’s most kind. Here are the FRU details: 09K9982 010. I thought the individual connection details might be in a User’s Manual but have been quite unable to locate one. Also because it’s a single proprietary plug (as opposed to a number of individual ones) guess it might be hard to get the usual specific detail on each individual connection point.
Should you happen to easily put your hand on the info that would be a bonus. Otherwise, please see Edfair’s T/E below. Thanks again.
Denis
Edfair,
Many thanks. Should have explained. Picked up mobo at computer fair and now wanting to fit into ATX – and hence such limited info & identifying connection points at pre-cold boot stage.
Very helpful to know what connections involved. Believe I came across something re one of other netavista models that no reset so this would confirm that. Also, wasn’t sure how safe t/e would be – so thanks for that and sequence.
Couple of quick questions:
1) Power LED currently 3 connection plug:
- + 5V
- no connect
- PLED
Presumably, simply re-wire into 2 connection plug?
2) Speaker currently 4 connection plug:
- Speaker
- no connect
- no connect
- Ground
a) Looks like there is an individual 2 pin connector for speaker behind I/O??
b) Presumably, simply re-wire into 2 connection plug?
Looks like I might get away with I/O plate. Thanks again for a very helpful message.
Regards,
Denis
FAMILY NETVISTA PERSONAL COMPUTER
TYPE 8305
MODEL VGU
That is the info on the unit I have. You have to try and find out which one yours is. I found all this out by looking around and checking different configurations, so it may be a bit difficult. Its worth it in the end as there is a ton of info and some great utilities as well.
But you do have to make sure you find the exact unit.
Only problem is i am not sure if you can find your exact unit if you dont have the type and model #, similar to what i have above. I dont know if i can find it for you as i dont know what your motherboard looks like and that is what i went with to find the one i have.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
TYPE 8305
MODEL VGU
That is the info on the unit I have. You have to try and find out which one yours is. I found all this out by looking around and checking different configurations, so it may be a bit difficult. Its worth it in the end as there is a ton of info and some great utilities as well.
But you do have to make sure you find the exact unit.
Only problem is i am not sure if you can find your exact unit if you dont have the type and model #, similar to what i have above. I dont know if i can find it for you as i dont know what your motherboard looks like and that is what i went with to find the one i have.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
One thing you can do is to take a flat screwdriver and touch it 2 of the pins until the computer boots, that way you will find the power\on pins. From that you can pretty well figure it out after that. That is one way of doing it.
Actually, i dont think you have to do that. If yours is the same, which it sounds like it is, then the 8 pin connector is there on the edge of the motherboard, right?
Then beside it you have another connector that says FP USB, right?
If so, then the 2 pins closest to the FP USB are the 2 pins for the power\on switch on the case. I will get the info on the rest shortly. I dont have this motherboard installed right now, i am only going by memory.
But i will find the info i got from IBM, the manual, and give you the rest. But yes, i remember having to break the connectors apart as well so that a standard atx case would work.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
Actually, i dont think you have to do that. If yours is the same, which it sounds like it is, then the 8 pin connector is there on the edge of the motherboard, right?
Then beside it you have another connector that says FP USB, right?
If so, then the 2 pins closest to the FP USB are the 2 pins for the power\on switch on the case. I will get the info on the rest shortly. I dont have this motherboard installed right now, i am only going by memory.
But i will find the info i got from IBM, the manual, and give you the rest. But yes, i remember having to break the connectors apart as well so that a standard atx case would work.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
1) Yes, you can take it to a 2 pin plug or move one of the outside to the middle and slice off the now unused end. Just pry gently when you raise the interlock. They break easily. Evidently the case you bought isn't to the latest specs. Common now to have 2 pin power led connections.
2) No speaker connections on mine. Look for a piezio on yours. About 3/8 round, 3/8 high with a hole in the top. There could be a different type on yours.
The 2 position molex will slip onto the pins without any problems into the housing.
When you get around to memory, be advised that it is special. You generally can find it on ebay.
And the FRU may not cross reference.
I would suggest that you download and burn to CD the board drivers from IBM. When you need them, it is too late.
And for general info for those who are interested. I just noticed that the board I was looking at for reference had a Gigabyte part number.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
2) No speaker connections on mine. Look for a piezio on yours. About 3/8 round, 3/8 high with a hole in the top. There could be a different type on yours.
The 2 position molex will slip onto the pins without any problems into the housing.
When you get around to memory, be advised that it is special. You generally can find it on ebay.
And the FRU may not cross reference.
I would suggest that you download and burn to CD the board drivers from IBM. When you need them, it is too late.
And for general info for those who are interested. I just noticed that the board I was looking at for reference had a Gigabyte part number.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
That is the page to download hardware info and it includes jumper settings. Its in a pdf file.
If the motherboard looks the same or even similar then you can likely use the pdf file to get the jumper settings.
In other words, the pdf file on that page has the jumper settings for the netvista motherboard i have, it might be good for yours as well.
On the side of the heatsink for the cpu, what are the numbers on yours? Mine are IBM FRU 32P4004
There are other FRU numbers on mine as well. On the motherboard itself is FRU PN 49P1599.
Edfair, seems to me I remember someone saying the one i had was also made by Gigabyte.
I see that i am jumping all over here, sorry for that. I am going by memory and then adding to that with info i have that i got from IBM and put on cd.
I am doing all this as you really want to find out which motherboard you have to download all the files you need for it. As Edfair says, they wont be there forever.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
If, in the end, we can find out what type and model yours is, then this is the place to start. You will note that I have my type and model plugged in there, but you can change it to yours and that will lead you to all the drivers and everything else.
If you cut and paste all of the above then you will get to the page i am talking about. The IBM site, i find, is very hard to get around and find my way, so i am trying to pass on anything i can do to possibly help you.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
If you cut and paste all of the above then you will get to the page i am talking about. The IBM site, i find, is very hard to get around and find my way, so i am trying to pass on anything i can do to possibly help you.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
I'll add FRU 24P5565. But all 3 are different boards.
You can do a google search on "FRU XXXXXX" and come up with descriptions, and in Garebo's case a board layout.
Garebo, yours is an original that has been replaced by a later board. But a google search will get you info about the replacement and a whole lot of places where you can buy a replacement.
eponymous, yours has been replaced also. You may want to look closely at the capacitors. Seems that was one of the boards built with the infamous capacitors. Plenty of info on the web for you too.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
You can do a google search on "FRU XXXXXX" and come up with descriptions, and in Garebo's case a board layout.
Garebo, yours is an original that has been replaced by a later board. But a google search will get you info about the replacement and a whole lot of places where you can buy a replacement.
eponymous, yours has been replaced also. You may want to look closely at the capacitors. Seems that was one of the boards built with the infamous capacitors. Plenty of info on the web for you too.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
Would your board look something like this:
This diagram doesnt show each and every connector on the motherboard but do you have these connectors on yours?
If so, you will notice that the front panel connector is number 7 and right next to it (on the motherboard but not on the diagram) is the FP USB). Does your motherboard have that?
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
This diagram doesnt show each and every connector on the motherboard but do you have these connectors on yours?
If so, you will notice that the front panel connector is number 7 and right next to it (on the motherboard but not on the diagram) is the FP USB). Does your motherboard have that?
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
Sorry, Edfair, didnt see your post before mine.
But i guess no harm to add another page to have a look at.
Edfair, if we could find his board he can even download the recovery software along with all the motherboard and onboard peripherals software, thats what i am aiming at with all my questions and such.
eponymous, somehow i missed that you have posted an FRU number, sorry about that.
I wish we could find exactly which one is yours. What do you have onboard? And is your motherboard similar to the one in my last post? The unit i have has onboard video, intel,onboard network and sound, 4 usb ports, came with a P4 2.4 cpu and 40 gig hard drive. Thats all i got of the whole system, i had it in my own case, but i did get all the connectors in the front main connector section working.
I installed win xp pro and got all the motherboard files and installed them all.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
But i guess no harm to add another page to have a look at.
Edfair, if we could find his board he can even download the recovery software along with all the motherboard and onboard peripherals software, thats what i am aiming at with all my questions and such.
eponymous, somehow i missed that you have posted an FRU number, sorry about that.
I wish we could find exactly which one is yours. What do you have onboard? And is your motherboard similar to the one in my last post? The unit i have has onboard video, intel,onboard network and sound, 4 usb ports, came with a P4 2.4 cpu and 40 gig hard drive. Thats all i got of the whole system, i had it in my own case, but i did get all the connectors in the front main connector section working.
I installed win xp pro and got all the motherboard files and installed them all.
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
- Thread starter
- #15
Garebo & Edfair,
Thank you very much for such an amazing flow of suggestions/info.
The board is Netvista A40 Type 6830/6831
ftp://ftp.software.ibm.com/pc/pccbbs/netvista_pdf/22p2896.pdf
pdf page 39 for board diagram
- 23 looks like speaker connector
Edfair, thanks for warning on capacitors. The reason I’m switching boards is because my Asus CUV4X died. To be honest I’m still not 100% sure. No beeps, No POST - fans work, LEDs, could feel heat in heatsink. (Diagnosis made purely on symptoms of no beeps [Capacitors did seem to look OK]).
Ideally would like to use Netvista A40 for further tests of CPU etc.
1. Is it possible to turn power on without CPU - believe some boards refuse to turn on/beep if problem with CPU failure etc - plus is it possible/safe to try connection tests before adding CPU?
2. Is there any risk in putting 512k ram stick into 256k ram slot - assuming will simply only be able to read 256k and won't do any harm - but first want to check for any risks in any direction?
Once again, thank you both again for your excellent help.
Regards,
Denis
Thank you very much for such an amazing flow of suggestions/info.
The board is Netvista A40 Type 6830/6831
ftp://ftp.software.ibm.com/pc/pccbbs/netvista_pdf/22p2896.pdf
pdf page 39 for board diagram
- 23 looks like speaker connector
Edfair, thanks for warning on capacitors. The reason I’m switching boards is because my Asus CUV4X died. To be honest I’m still not 100% sure. No beeps, No POST - fans work, LEDs, could feel heat in heatsink. (Diagnosis made purely on symptoms of no beeps [Capacitors did seem to look OK]).
Ideally would like to use Netvista A40 for further tests of CPU etc.
1. Is it possible to turn power on without CPU - believe some boards refuse to turn on/beep if problem with CPU failure etc - plus is it possible/safe to try connection tests before adding CPU?
2. Is there any risk in putting 512k ram stick into 256k ram slot - assuming will simply only be able to read 256k and won't do any harm - but first want to check for any risks in any direction?
Once again, thank you both again for your excellent help.
Regards,
Denis
I've only seen the warning (google search on your FRU #) that the board had problems with capacitors and that was the reason it had been upgraded in systems.
My display wasn't too clear, but #13 as speaker? On front of board, left side. To left of CMOS clear.
I'm always hesitant about using power with no CPU. You never know what the designers want turned off during POST. One of my paranoid fears. But I've never knowingly blown a board doing it.
Unknown about the risks of memory. Netvista series I support want IBM or equivalent, unhappy campers with generic stuff. I tried it on one of mine and it wouldn't POST.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
My display wasn't too clear, but #13 as speaker? On front of board, left side. To left of CMOS clear.
I'm always hesitant about using power with no CPU. You never know what the designers want turned off during POST. One of my paranoid fears. But I've never knowingly blown a board doing it.
Unknown about the risks of memory. Netvista series I support want IBM or equivalent, unhappy campers with generic stuff. I tried it on one of mine and it wouldn't POST.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
eponymous
Now that you have the model, type, etc, you can download a ton of stuff, like all the drivers for your motherboard and the onboard items like network, sound, etc, etc.
You can also download and make a recovery cd and all sorts of stuff.
By the way, if you are doing a new install, once you get going, if you see a yellow exclamation in device mgr on your usb2.0 its only because you need to install win xp sp1, then all will be well.
I know you asked Edfair, but i wouldnt mess around with trying to power a machine without the cpu. Can i ask why you would want to do that?
And thanks for the star!
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
Now that you have the model, type, etc, you can download a ton of stuff, like all the drivers for your motherboard and the onboard items like network, sound, etc, etc.
You can also download and make a recovery cd and all sorts of stuff.
By the way, if you are doing a new install, once you get going, if you see a yellow exclamation in device mgr on your usb2.0 its only because you need to install win xp sp1, then all will be well.
I know you asked Edfair, but i wouldnt mess around with trying to power a machine without the cpu. Can i ask why you would want to do that?
And thanks for the star!
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
- Thread starter
- #18
EdFair,
Thanks for this. My attention had been drawn to the role of capacitors in mobo death by this article (of which I imagine there are many) - Blown and Leaking Motherboard Capacitors - A Serious Problem?
URL:
Thanks for the advice on CPU - preferring to err on the side of caution guess that was what I was really hoping to have confirmed.
Btw re unclear display should be #23 as opposed to #13 for speaker (just in front of CD Rom connection)
Thanks again for the tip about IBM RAM which I hadn’t registered earlier - and all your other help.
Regards,
Denis
Garebo,
Thanks for this. Re trying to power a machine without the CPU – a mix of reasons held together largely by curiosity.
1. As a novice am a bit apprehensive about T/E test and concerned about accidental short-circuits etc – not having CPU installed meant potentially one less component to damage!
2. When ASUS CUV4X died this essentially seemed a process of elimination with the 3 final parts being, mobo, cpu, ram. I found the information on the subject a bit ambiguous with some articles suggesting test with CPU removed; others removing and then immediately re-installing CPU; others that mobo may not work with CPU removed as safety mechanism would prevent this; and now Edfair has underlined possibilities of genuine risks.
Guess real motivation a mix of curiosity, clarification and safety.
Thanks again for all your help.
Regards,
Denis
Thanks for this. My attention had been drawn to the role of capacitors in mobo death by this article (of which I imagine there are many) - Blown and Leaking Motherboard Capacitors - A Serious Problem?
URL:
Thanks for the advice on CPU - preferring to err on the side of caution guess that was what I was really hoping to have confirmed.
Btw re unclear display should be #23 as opposed to #13 for speaker (just in front of CD Rom connection)
Thanks again for the tip about IBM RAM which I hadn’t registered earlier - and all your other help.
Regards,
Denis
Garebo,
Thanks for this. Re trying to power a machine without the CPU – a mix of reasons held together largely by curiosity.
1. As a novice am a bit apprehensive about T/E test and concerned about accidental short-circuits etc – not having CPU installed meant potentially one less component to damage!
2. When ASUS CUV4X died this essentially seemed a process of elimination with the 3 final parts being, mobo, cpu, ram. I found the information on the subject a bit ambiguous with some articles suggesting test with CPU removed; others removing and then immediately re-installing CPU; others that mobo may not work with CPU removed as safety mechanism would prevent this; and now Edfair has underlined possibilities of genuine risks.
Guess real motivation a mix of curiosity, clarification and safety.
Thanks again for all your help.
Regards,
Denis
After looking again, it appears you are correct. Not because I can read the numbers in the block but by counting them from the top. In front of the CD sound connector. The one I was originally thinking was sound appears to be a fan connector.
Give it a go on the T/E. You will have 1 input and 2 outputs. The input may or may not work with a LED and the outputs are protected by resistors. In theory you can't screw it up. But I hate making a blanket statement like that, some people can screw up sure things.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
Give it a go on the T/E. You will have 1 input and 2 outputs. The input may or may not work with a LED and the outputs are protected by resistors. In theory you can't screw it up. But I hate making a blanket statement like that, some people can screw up sure things.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
One thing you can do is to take a flat screwdriver and touch it 2 of the pins until the computer boots, that way you will find the power\on pins. From that you can pretty well figure it out after that. That is one way of doing it.
I copied that from above. Its basically in agreement with what Edfair said, the trial and error method is fairly safe. I can tell you that i have done this with probably somewhere between 50 and 100 motherboards. To the point where when i am taking a motherboard out of the case, i only give the connector area a quick look and try and remember, instead of writing it down. The reason is that the power\on is easy to find and the rest follow suit pretty easily. Never had a problem with shorting, arcing, etc, they are all protected. At least the front panel connectors, that is, cant say that blanket statement for everything. And one can get in trouble with certain usb connections where the person has a group of wires to connect to usb pins on a motherboard as some differ, there are at least 2 different standards there. But i dont even think you will run into that on your motherboard, so not to worry about it.
I,too, have read about booting without the cpu, i just never bothered to try it.
Have you got your front panel connectors all set up?
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
I copied that from above. Its basically in agreement with what Edfair said, the trial and error method is fairly safe. I can tell you that i have done this with probably somewhere between 50 and 100 motherboards. To the point where when i am taking a motherboard out of the case, i only give the connector area a quick look and try and remember, instead of writing it down. The reason is that the power\on is easy to find and the rest follow suit pretty easily. Never had a problem with shorting, arcing, etc, they are all protected. At least the front panel connectors, that is, cant say that blanket statement for everything. And one can get in trouble with certain usb connections where the person has a group of wires to connect to usb pins on a motherboard as some differ, there are at least 2 different standards there. But i dont even think you will run into that on your motherboard, so not to worry about it.
I,too, have read about booting without the cpu, i just never bothered to try it.
Have you got your front panel connectors all set up?
Good advice + great people = tek-tips
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