No Post Capacitor buldge

[cbmudd]

Have a XP Pro system. No Post, No screen, No Beep.
The lights for the Power up and HDD come on and stay solid. The CD Rom Lights Blink normaly. The hard drive spins for a second. Then Nothing. I put in a Grapghics card. I put in one stick of memory. I tried another hard drive just to try and get a beep. I tried a new power supply. The Mother boaed is a Gigabyte duel bios. I have herd about bad capacitors. Near the onboard grapics, there are three caps that do look bulged on top. Anyone else have any info on this?????????

 

[edfair]

Try a google search. This has been a big enough problem that it is well covered. And yes, you probably have a M/B problem.
You might also see if it shows as a problem on the gigabyte site.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[cbmudd]

linney (TechnicalUser) Oct 31, 2004
"How ANYONE Can Replace Leaking Capacitors"

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1081/

 

[cbmudd]

Thanks linney. I have detected three bulging caps next the the spot where the Onboard graphis connection is. I am going to call Gigabyte monday. The board is two years old. I have heard they will extend the warenty to three years in some cases. Other wise I am going to try and repair myself.

I have heard that intense graphics can cuase the caps to overheat and expand so it makes sense these were the three to go. One has a little black burn on top also.

 

[edfair]

If you go at the M/B use a large enough iron (25 to 35) watts to heat the lead up and melt the solder pretty fast. And use a wet tip to get the heat transfer.
You'll probably have to walk the caps out like the article explains. So you'll end up with a solder filled hole. Plan on having a solder sucker to clean it out.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[Freestone]

If Gigabyte doesn't help you and you are uncomfortable with repairing the board, then you may want to consider the services provide here:

http://www.motherboardrepair.com/index.php?sec=home

A friend of mine has had three motherboards repaired from here and he reports excellent service and fast turn-around time.

 

[cbmudd]

Does anyone recomend a specific type of solder to use. I have a solder vac and a good iron.

 

[micker377]

There are only two kinds of solder - general (acid core) and electronic (flux core). Make sure it is thin (lower melting point).

 

[edfair]

Relates more to mass and heat removal, melting point is the same.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[felixc]

Don't ever use acid core! Ina ddition to being very corrosive, this flux is conductive!
Water-soluble is not good for repairs either, as it is very corrosive and you need to clean the board with soap afterwards. Else it will attack the traces.
Try to find solder with no-clean flux. At worst mild rosin-core can do the job.

 

[bcastner]

Ed Fair,

I admit to using Radio Shack on sale specials. What would be a good (occasional not production use) recommendation for a soldering iron for a PCB repair as indicated in this link?

My experience to date is that my lousy soldering techniques in combination with an either a too hot or to cold tip makes the process douable but discouraging.

Any advice appreciated.

Best,
Bill

 

[edfair]

I use Ungar handle with one of 3 tips, 25watt, 33watt, or 45watt, depending on component and weight of board. I don't do much iron work anymore so I'm still working with the stuff I used 25 years ago. Weller stuff is probably better quality but I never went for the more expensive.

Heat control is a witch. I taught a course 15 years ago and used an old 110 watt AT&T iron and 30 ga wire wrap wire to explain the concept to my students. They readily understood the concept when the wire went poof. Then had them do a splice on 14 ga solid with a 25 watt tip. A couple tried for an hour to figure out how to retain enough heat to melt the solder.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[bcastner]

Ed Fair,

Thanks, I had at one time an Ungar such as you describe and liked it.

It sounds like a good solution.

As an off-topic note, I was planning some things for my sail boat, and decided I would solder some connections where they are now crimped this Spring.

And then my 12-year-old hacker son asked if I had a soldering iron he could bother, and some capacitors.

"Sure, but would you mind telling me why you need these all of the sudden?"

"I want to make a stun gun I can hide in my clothing."

Gack! I told him it would not work if he used anything higher than an AAA battery as the source.

 

[cbmudd]

Ok here it goes. I have had some schooling on soldering.
I think I like the sugestion to use NO Clean Flux.

I think it is important to get the right heat when soldering with electronics. Hot enough to do the job quickly but not to hot. To cold and you can still damage components by holding the iron on to long.

My teacher used a military stile. In Military soldering you apply a bit of solder to both componits by tining them.
Then you can make a quick solder with a hot iron very quickly.

However, I have contacted Gigabyte and they are going to warenty the board. Thumbs up to Gigabyte custermer service. They have treated my fairly so far...........

 

[edfair]

Multi-core rosin. You can leave it on the board. Not pretty but it doesn't hurt anything. You can get several sizes. With electronic components on a board probably best to be in the .035-.050 range.
Your military style is more a tack. And it is subject to vibration, although that is the method in surface mount. The trade off is a mechanically sound joint first and then enough solder to hold it, but that can lead to brittle wire that will fail under flexing.
In any case, glad you got it surveyed. Soldering caps on the board puts it at risk with the multilayer construction and having to walk them out.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[cbmudd]

Thanks to all who responded to this Post. I always say when you stop learning all the fun is gone.

 

[micker377]

I use a Weller "pencil" with a "variable heat" power supply. Retired TV repairman!