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cpu/computer fans not working
- Thread starter the007kid
- Start date
1. do the new fans work? meaning are they getting power?
2. try clearing CMOS, see the handbook on the mainboard about how to do this, or take out the battery for 10 min., unplug from the main... then reinsert the battery and the mains, then try to boot up...
Ben
"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."
2. try clearing CMOS, see the handbook on the mainboard about how to do this, or take out the battery for 10 min., unplug from the main... then reinsert the battery and the mains, then try to boot up...
Ben
"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."
Hmmm, Emachine is what caught my attention...
If you have the option, check the fan works ok on another machine - you don't have to remove that machine's CPU assembly, just plug the fan's minature 3-pin connector into any available motherboard 12v fan socket.
Assuming the fan's ok, I'd check the PSU first. Try substitution with a known good one, same Wattage or higher.
Emachine problems seem to be equally divided between the partial/complete demise of either the motherboard or the PSU.
Good luck.
ROGER - G0AOZ.
If you have the option, check the fan works ok on another machine - you don't have to remove that machine's CPU assembly, just plug the fan's minature 3-pin connector into any available motherboard 12v fan socket.
Assuming the fan's ok, I'd check the PSU first. Try substitution with a known good one, same Wattage or higher.
Emachine problems seem to be equally divided between the partial/complete demise of either the motherboard or the PSU.
Good luck.
ROGER - G0AOZ.
- Thread starter
- #5
- Thread starter
- #6
Ah, Emachines...the Yugo of PCs. I owned one and it served me well for many years. When my power supply went, I made the mistake of not bringing the old one with me to the shop. I bought a standard ATX, where the emachine replacement was one of the weird ones like this:
Anyway I found that with some, er, creative installation involving a Dremel and tin snips an ATX PSU will fit just fine...if you don't mind your CD sticking out about 1/2".
So, the moral of the story is bring your old part or, if buying online, make sure every dimension checks out.
Oh, and my Emachine, it still lives on with a Biostar MB and Sempron...OK, the CASE lives on but I'm the loyal sort. It was, after all, my first PC. (sniff)
Tony
Anyway I found that with some, er, creative installation involving a Dremel and tin snips an ATX PSU will fit just fine...if you don't mind your CD sticking out about 1/2".
So, the moral of the story is bring your old part or, if buying online, make sure every dimension checks out.
Oh, and my Emachine, it still lives on with a Biostar MB and Sempron...OK, the CASE lives on but I'm the loyal sort. It was, after all, my first PC. (sniff)
Tony
In view of the fact that you've recently changed the PSU, I'd say the chances are favouring a faulty motherboard...
You could try removing the GeForce video card and see if that helps, but my money's still on the mobo being the culprit.
ROGER - G0AOZ.
You could try removing the GeForce video card and see if that helps, but my money's still on the mobo being the culprit.
ROGER - G0AOZ.
- Thread starter
- #9
Hey...a new MB,CPU, RAM & you're there!
Take a look at my AM2 post on this page for some budget but quality ideas...we're talking less than $200 here for a dual core Athlon, RAM & MB. And of course you would need to select the graphic interface (AGP vs PCI-E) to match your new GFX card. At this point trying to re-use CPU or RAM is not advised...but they make great spares!
Allow the Emachine case to live on!
Take a look at my AM2 post on this page for some budget but quality ideas...we're talking less than $200 here for a dual core Athlon, RAM & MB. And of course you would need to select the graphic interface (AGP vs PCI-E) to match your new GFX card. At this point trying to re-use CPU or RAM is not advised...but they make great spares!
Allow the Emachine case to live on!
xit is right on the money when it comes to a standard eMachines base unit, PSU's failing and taking out the motherboards is oh so common.
But with you saying that you replaced the PSU for a Thermaltake I would definately say there is a very good chance that the motherboard is at fault.
At one point we were repairing so many of these that it became something of a routine.
(presuming this is a socket 478 motherboard?) I would recommend you replace the mainboard with an ASRock P4I65G i865G Skt 478
This allows for using the same memory, CPU and graphics card.
The bonus is/was that because this motherboard uses the same chipset with almost all the repairs it was unecessary to re-install Windows as the system would/will just boot up from the original install with very little fuss.
Martin
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But with you saying that you replaced the PSU for a Thermaltake I would definately say there is a very good chance that the motherboard is at fault.
At one point we were repairing so many of these that it became something of a routine.
(presuming this is a socket 478 motherboard?) I would recommend you replace the mainboard with an ASRock P4I65G i865G Skt 478
This allows for using the same memory, CPU and graphics card.
The bonus is/was that because this motherboard uses the same chipset with almost all the repairs it was unecessary to re-install Windows as the system would/will just boot up from the original install with very little fuss.
Martin
We like members to GIVE and not just TAKE.
Participate and help others.
- Thread starter
- #12
Not very hard at all! about a 15minute job as long as you have your notebook ready to scribble down a few reminders of where wires/plugs/cables go.
Physically it has just 6 mounting screws holding the motherboard onto the stand off mountings (make sure the old mountings are in the correct places to line up with the "brite solder" mounting holes on the new motherboard (the important thing is that the motherboard only touches the case at these 6 grounding points, not anywhere else) Swap the I/O plate (be careful to avoid any of the earthing fingers on the I/O plate to bend inside the USB or other connections on the motherboard) remount.
Follow the manual for the front panel header pin outs (the wires will be labelled) so just connect them correctly (observing polarity + and -) the motherboard is labelled (screen printed on it's PCB surface) so with a little care it isn't too difficult to match the connector with the pin out.
Make sure the IDE ribbon cables go back on the correct IDE connections (the first IDE 0 or 1, is normally the Hard Drive IDE2 is general for the roms if two cables are used)note* keyways in the cables for correct orientation.
Again power connectors only fit one way so look and observe connector shapes (don't force)
Once you are sure everything is connected the correct way around and the motherboard isn't shorting to the case, power it up, fingers crossed it will boot right up into windows.
Martin
We like members to GIVE and not just TAKE.
Participate and help others.
Physically it has just 6 mounting screws holding the motherboard onto the stand off mountings (make sure the old mountings are in the correct places to line up with the "brite solder" mounting holes on the new motherboard (the important thing is that the motherboard only touches the case at these 6 grounding points, not anywhere else) Swap the I/O plate (be careful to avoid any of the earthing fingers on the I/O plate to bend inside the USB or other connections on the motherboard) remount.
Follow the manual for the front panel header pin outs (the wires will be labelled) so just connect them correctly (observing polarity + and -) the motherboard is labelled (screen printed on it's PCB surface) so with a little care it isn't too difficult to match the connector with the pin out.
Make sure the IDE ribbon cables go back on the correct IDE connections (the first IDE 0 or 1, is normally the Hard Drive IDE2 is general for the roms if two cables are used)note* keyways in the cables for correct orientation.
Again power connectors only fit one way so look and observe connector shapes (don't force)
Once you are sure everything is connected the correct way around and the motherboard isn't shorting to the case, power it up, fingers crossed it will boot right up into windows.
Martin
We like members to GIVE and not just TAKE.
Participate and help others.
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