I have a Compaq Presario 1200 laptop and a HP 640c printer.I am running win98_se and have the latest drivers for the printer.When printing images that i produce with CorelDraw9 i cannot get the printing to match the screen image.I would like to find the settings(.icm file) for the laptop screen.When checking out the available files that are in the windows/system/color folder I cannot find any for laptop screens.The main problem that I have is the printing of the blue spectrum.Any help would be appreciated.
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Calabrate color printing to laptop screen?
- Thread starter mrfixall
- Start date
First question. Is the screen image preferable to what the printer prints or vice versa? I ask because it makes a difference in the question you are asking. If you prefer (as it seems) the screen image, then looking for something to make the screen match the printer isn't going to work the way you want it too. Chances are that the printer simply won't handle the same amount of color shades/variants that your laptop will.
On the other hand, if the printer has better colors than the laptop, I would check Compaq's website and see if they have any updated versions of your video driver. That might help your screen.
Hope this helps.
Catadmin - New to Server Admin, but willing to learn... All help is appreciated.
On the other hand, if the printer has better colors than the laptop, I would check Compaq's website and see if they have any updated versions of your video driver. That might help your screen.
Hope this helps.
Catadmin - New to Server Admin, but willing to learn... All help is appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #3
thank you Catadmin,I am tring to get the printer to print the same colors that I see on the screen.So as you say that the printer just can't handle the the number of shades that the screen can,I am woundering if there is a way to print an image of a pallete with many colors so that I could chose the colors that print the way I need them.should I try to make such a pallete or is there one available to your knowlege?
As with photographic printing you either have primary or secondary colours that when blended in differant quantities make up all the colours you can see.
C.M.Y: Cyan, Megenta, Yellow
R.G.B: Red, Green, Blue
If you can pick up a printing swatch with either of these three on it, flatbed scan, then display, adjust monitor image against printer image of colours.
In theory at least if you could match up the printed image against the display image all colours should print correctly.
In reality this can be extremely difficult to do but the process will get your adjustments closer to true if nothing else. Martin Just trying to help, sometimes falling short, I am only human after all.
C.M.Y: Cyan, Megenta, Yellow
R.G.B: Red, Green, Blue
If you can pick up a printing swatch with either of these three on it, flatbed scan, then display, adjust monitor image against printer image of colours.
In theory at least if you could match up the printed image against the display image all colours should print correctly.
In reality this can be extremely difficult to do but the process will get your adjustments closer to true if nothing else. Martin Just trying to help, sometimes falling short, I am only human after all.
Like Paparazi said, if you have a scanner, you can scan one in. The best places to find multicolor palettes would be an art store. Look for what they call a "Color Wheel" which shows all sorts of different shades. Or go to a search engine and try and find palettes that someone may have put on their webpages or have for downloading. That may help you calibrate the shades you're looking for.
If you don't want to spend money, try the web search option first. @=)
Catadmin - New to Server Admin, but willing to learn... All help is appreciated.
If you don't want to spend money, try the web search option first. @=)
Catadmin - New to Server Admin, but willing to learn... All help is appreciated.
The problem is you may never be able to completely match the color outputs of the two.
What you need on the system is Gamma correction, the likes of which comes with Adobe Photoshop. You will install the Gamma system and run the Adjustment program, which will create a new (or work with an old) .ICM color profile. That profile will be saved and then shared with the printer, and hopefully the colors will be somewhat similiar.
Gamma is a correction to compensate for the non-linearity of the phosphors used in monitors and the non-linearity of the human eye's response to colors. After color tests were conducted it was found that the human eye is most sensitive to blue-green. The monitor makers take that into account and by increasing the blue-green component of the picture, the picture appears brighter to the human eye. This is called the white point.
The white point should be set to 6500 degrees Kelvin, the color temperature of sunlight - but to make the picture look brighter they commonly set it to 7800 - 9500 degrees. This is too blue in reality, but you eye automatically adjusts. Gamma corrects for all these problems.
The main problem of your system is that LCD's have a non-linear gray scale. That is, as the images on an LCD go from light to dark they also change color - which it shouldn't. The base color of an object should not vary with it's brightness. So if you try to adjust for Gamma on an LCD you can only adjust for mid-tones; D-MAX (black) or D-MIN (light) will go non-linear. There is nothing you can do if you want *perfect* accuracy. You adjust for the LCD's response curve and go from there.
I, also, edit on an LCD laptop. I've gone to only trusting measurement tools in the program that I use on the image (the eyedropper color measurement tool) - my eyes, thanks to the LCD's non-linear and reduced gray scale (an LCD also does not have as many gray shades as a CRT) will not show me the true output. I have Gamma corrected the LCD as best I can but no correction will ever compensate for the errors that the LCD itself creates.
If you want true, true colors you will have to hook up a CRT and run Gamma on it. Your mileage may vary...
What you need on the system is Gamma correction, the likes of which comes with Adobe Photoshop. You will install the Gamma system and run the Adjustment program, which will create a new (or work with an old) .ICM color profile. That profile will be saved and then shared with the printer, and hopefully the colors will be somewhat similiar.
Gamma is a correction to compensate for the non-linearity of the phosphors used in monitors and the non-linearity of the human eye's response to colors. After color tests were conducted it was found that the human eye is most sensitive to blue-green. The monitor makers take that into account and by increasing the blue-green component of the picture, the picture appears brighter to the human eye. This is called the white point.
The white point should be set to 6500 degrees Kelvin, the color temperature of sunlight - but to make the picture look brighter they commonly set it to 7800 - 9500 degrees. This is too blue in reality, but you eye automatically adjusts. Gamma corrects for all these problems.
The main problem of your system is that LCD's have a non-linear gray scale. That is, as the images on an LCD go from light to dark they also change color - which it shouldn't. The base color of an object should not vary with it's brightness. So if you try to adjust for Gamma on an LCD you can only adjust for mid-tones; D-MAX (black) or D-MIN (light) will go non-linear. There is nothing you can do if you want *perfect* accuracy. You adjust for the LCD's response curve and go from there.
I, also, edit on an LCD laptop. I've gone to only trusting measurement tools in the program that I use on the image (the eyedropper color measurement tool) - my eyes, thanks to the LCD's non-linear and reduced gray scale (an LCD also does not have as many gray shades as a CRT) will not show me the true output. I have Gamma corrected the LCD as best I can but no correction will ever compensate for the errors that the LCD itself creates.
If you want true, true colors you will have to hook up a CRT and run Gamma on it. Your mileage may vary...
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