We don't usually do residential, but I need to run some drops in a house. The house has 10-12 foot walls with two firebreaks. There is existing coax run, but it is stapled to the studs so using it at a guide or pullstring is out. Any suggestions other than cutting sheetrock?
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Cabling in tall walls with multiple fire breaks 1
- Thread starter phreak23
- Start date
allworxguy
Vendor
Maybe you can elaborate on where you are running the wire (to/from).
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
- Thread starter
- #3
The cable modem and router is in the office, but drops are needed in the den and living room. The office and den have 10' ceiling and the living room has 12' ceiling. There are two horizontal fire breaks in all the walls. They don't want drops to come out into the middle of the wall, they want them next to, or in the same box as the cable drop. The cable drops are stapled to the studs, so pulling them back is not an option. I have a 6' bit, but it is not nearly long enough to reach the lower firebreak.
any ideas?
any ideas?
allworxguy
Vendor
You're coming down from the attic?
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
- Thread starter
- #5
allworxguy
Vendor
Is there a way you can come up from below?
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
- Thread starter
- #7
allworxguy
Vendor
Other than that I don't have answer for you. The longest bit I've seen is 6ft.
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
Marv ccna
Sales, Installation & Service for Norstar, BCM & Allworx
Serving Ottawa and Eastern Ontario since 1990
-
1
- #9
misseditbythatmuch
Technical User
If you have the space in the attic and ready access to the top plate of the stud bay you want to descend, this may be an option:
DEWALT DW1647 12-Inch Selfeed Bit Extension
You can add multiple extensions to your drill bit. It helps if your bits have a hex shank for engaging the set screws.
The longer the extensions, the smaller the bit you can support as torque transfer becomes an issue, and of course, you would want to use the sharpest bits you can, understanding your drill bit must be enough larger than the joint on the extension so that you can retrieve once drilled. It does take a little probing to be sure at the lengths you are talking to be sure you are in the middle of the cavity. Snagging a nail or hitting some heavy plaster or drywall compound in the bay is always a risk for entrapping the drill.
It is not an elegant solution and there is an entrapment risk and there is the risk of joint failure if you fail to set the set screws very tightly. However, when it works, it works great.
These form a fairly rigid rig, so if you walls are plumb, you can take a level or plump bob to the rig as you lower it to ensure you have a suitable drop. If found low RPM drilling best as higher speeds created a lot of wobble. It also helps to pre-measure your rig and mark every six inches with tape so you can gauge your depth.
However, I have used these extensions when I had a straight run to attack rafter purlins for ceiling fans and stud bay firestops I have gotten to about 8 feet (had 9 extensions plus a drill bit in play).
If you use a bit with a draw lug or snaking hole at the tip, you can pull your fish tape up when you withdraw your extensions and make your life a bit simpler.
DEWALT DW1647 12-Inch Selfeed Bit Extension
You can add multiple extensions to your drill bit. It helps if your bits have a hex shank for engaging the set screws.
The longer the extensions, the smaller the bit you can support as torque transfer becomes an issue, and of course, you would want to use the sharpest bits you can, understanding your drill bit must be enough larger than the joint on the extension so that you can retrieve once drilled. It does take a little probing to be sure at the lengths you are talking to be sure you are in the middle of the cavity. Snagging a nail or hitting some heavy plaster or drywall compound in the bay is always a risk for entrapping the drill.
It is not an elegant solution and there is an entrapment risk and there is the risk of joint failure if you fail to set the set screws very tightly. However, when it works, it works great.
These form a fairly rigid rig, so if you walls are plumb, you can take a level or plump bob to the rig as you lower it to ensure you have a suitable drop. If found low RPM drilling best as higher speeds created a lot of wobble. It also helps to pre-measure your rig and mark every six inches with tape so you can gauge your depth.
However, I have used these extensions when I had a straight run to attack rafter purlins for ceiling fans and stud bay firestops I have gotten to about 8 feet (had 9 extensions plus a drill bit in play).
If you use a bit with a draw lug or snaking hole at the tip, you can pull your fish tape up when you withdraw your extensions and make your life a bit simpler.
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